A trip to one of Missouri’s 57 state parks evokes thoughts of outdoor activities like hiking, camping, paddling, and mountain biking.

But what about rock climbing? Recently, rumors have been swirling that climbing was no longer permitted in Missouri State Parks. Here at Terrain, we knew we had to dispel that myth.

“Climbing is absolutely allowed in certain designated areas in Missouri State Parks,” says Kintauna Myles, an outdoor recreation coordinator at the Missouri Department of Natural Resources.

Sport climbing is allowed at four of Missouri’s state parks. To engage in it, you must first fill out a permit, which you can do on the Missouri State Parks website or at each park’s office.

“People should fill out these permits,” says Nick Richards, president of Eastern Missouri Climbers Association. “It’s the way the parks track how much a park is actually used.”

Bouldering does not require a permit but is allowed only at Elephant Rocks State Park and certain areas of St. Francois State Park.

Gaining clarity on which state parks allow climbing — and which types of climbing are allowed — is hugely important, notes Richards.

“One of the biggest challenges for Missouri climbers has been simply knowing where climbing is permitted,” he says. “Having clear guidance on climbing access in our state parks removes that barrier and makes it easier for climbers to discover the outdoors responsibly.”

Now that you know you can climb in select state parks, where should you go? Here are a few good options.

Elephant Rocks State Park
Where: Belleview
Type of climbing allowed: bouldering
Permit required: no

Famous for its giant red granite boulders, Elephant Rocks offers bouldering comparable to West Coast destinations like Joshua Tree and Bishop Canyon. With over 100 boulder problems throughout the park, ranging from V0 (easiest) to V10 (expert), there’s something for everyone at E Rocks. Just be ready to leave some skin on the rock, because the coarse-grained granite is sharp.

 

A climber in Washington Square Park. (Michael Shepherd Jordan)

Washington State Park
Where: De Soto
Type of climbing allowed: sport climbing
Permit required: yes

Get ready to pull hard at one of Missouri State Parks’ newest climbing areas. This limestone bluff along the banks of the Big River features some of the best rock quality in the Midwest. It’s also home to some of the hardest routes in the state, including the 5.13b Screamin’ Eagle and several other 5.13s. For those new to climbing, 5.14 is considered pro-level, so yeah, 5.13s are hard.

St. Francois State Park
Where: Bonne Terre
Type of climbing allowed: sport climbing and bouldering
Permit required: yes

If you’re looking for a destination with a little bit of everything — including plenty of beginner routes — make your way to St. Francois State Park. In addition to sport climbing, bouldering is permitted as long as it’s outside the park’s Natural Area, which runs along the banks of Coonville Creek. There are also swimming opportunities in the adjacent Big River. With St. Francois’ fantastic campground, you can put together a pretty awesome weekend adventure.

***

Ready to Rock
Yes, climbing is allowed at certain Missouri State Parks, with established routes ready to be sent. Visit Missouri State Parks’ “Rock Climbing/Rappelling” webpage for park-specific information and links to permits. The Mountain Project app is another great resource for detailed route descriptions, grades, photos, and safety info.

New to climbing? Missouri State Parks’ Learn2 Climb program is the perfect place to start. Offered each spring and fall, this free, family-friendly program introduces participants ages 10 and up to the basics of climbing alongside certified instructors. Best of all, all gear is provided. Win-win.

Author: Michael Shepherd Jordan is a contributor to Terrain.

Top image: Angie Romanelli climbs Layback Crack in Elephant Rocks State Park. (Michael Shepherd Jordan)