Climb, Splash, Repeat: A Guide to Deep-Water Soloing in the Midwest

After Memorial Day in the Midwest, it’s often too hot and humid for sport climbing or bouldering outside at places like Jackson Falls and Robinson Bluff. Luckily, die-hard rock climbers still have a way to touch rock outside during the dog days of summer: deep-water soloing (DWS).

This form of climbing, which involves ascending routes located over large bodies of water, combines paddling, swimming, cliff jumping, and climbing into one rollicking good time. Intrigued? Here’s a primer.

How Does DWS Work?
Essentially, climbers rest on boats or paddleboards on the water before ascending a route without any ropes, harnesses, or protective equipment. If they fall, they land in the water and swim back to their flotation devices. If they complete the route, they top out on the cliff and either jump back into the water or walk back down, depending on the area.

What’s the Main Purpose?
For climbers feeling stir-crazy while spending the summer months indoors, DWS is a welcome respite from plastic holds and crowded gyms. For Claire Watson, vice president of Illinois Climbers Association, who first deep-water soloed in 2016, it’s not as much about sending and projecting as it is with your typical outdoor climbing.

“DWS is a fun escape from the Midwest summer grind, so it’s more about that joy and mental challenge for me,” she says. “Growing up, we spent a lot of time at Lake of the Ozarks, where I loved swimming and riding Jet Skis. DWS was a fun way to blend my love of climbing with my joy for being on water.”

How Do I Do It Safely?
As with any water-based activity, DWS should only be undertaken if you’re a strong swimmer who feels confident in the water. You should also be comfortable with heights and able to control your body in the air so you can hit the water in a pencil or pike position. Given that you must climb, swim, and then haul yourself back onto a boat or paddleboard, don’t underestimate how tiring this activity can be. In other words, prepare for a workout.

In addition to being a good swimmer, you should also be an experienced climber. Nick Richards, president of Eastern Missouri Climbers Association, says that you’re ready to DWS only if you can climb 5.10 or higher in the gym. Even then, always check the water for potential hazards before deep-water soloing, and never do it alone or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

What Gear Do I Need?
You’ll want to bring a flotation device, like a paddleboard or raft. (A basic plaster inner tube probably won’t cut it.) Regarding footwear, it’s a good idea to designate one pair of climbing shoes specifically for DWS, because once they get waterlogged, you won’t want to wear them again in the gym. You know that pair of climbing shoes with a hole in the toe that you’re about to throw away? Make those your DWS shoes.

Where Can I DWS near St. Louis?
Kinkaid Lake in Southern Illinois is the closest and best place to DWS. Windermere Wall on the Niangua River in central Missouri has several routes as well. Farther away, Nickajack Lake in Chattanooga, Tennessee, is a popular DWS spot. That’s about a seven-hour drive from St. Louis.

Got Any Tips for DWS at Kinkaid Lake?
The most challenging part of climbing at Kinkaid Lake is the approach from the parking lot to the water. It’s about a 30-minute walk or a 10-minute bike ride. Some people take boats or paddleboards to reach the cliff. The climbing season here generally runs from May to September. The horse flies (which bite) can be terrible in June, but they’re usually gone by July.

In terms of climbing, there is a 30-foot cave with about 15 routes that go as high as 55 feet. If it’s your first time, start small. “Climb up a few feet and jump in, then go a little higher and jump in,” advises Watson. “Before you commit to a move you’re not sure about, take the fall from that spot so you safely commit when you’re ready.”

Anything Else to Know about Kinkaid Lake?
If you’re new to DWS, it’s a great idea to head to Kinkaid Lake on a Saturday in the summer. There are bound to be experienced climbers there who will happily share info. “Most of the people who go there on a normal basis are very open to showing people how to climb there,” says Richards. The community ethos and friendly vibe are the best parts of climbing culture, and you’ll find it at Kinkaid Lake.

A final note: Unlike other climbing areas, Kinkaid Lake is not on Mountain Project. (It’s an effort to prevent overuse.) The GPS coordinates for the parking area are 37.8253069, -89.4513649.

Author: Mary Andino is a frequent contributor to Terrain.

Top image: Courtesy of Claire Watson.