Roughly 30 miles north of St. Louis, where the Mississippi carves past towering limestone bluffs, two river towns are quietly building a reputation among paddlers, cyclists, and trail runners who’d rather skip the crowds.
Alton and Grafton sit just 15 miles apart on the Illinois side, linked by a ribbon of river-level road and a scenic bike trail — close enough to hit both in a single weekend, different enough that you’ll want to.
Alton comes loaded with oddball history: birthplace of Robert Wadlow, the tallest man ever recorded at 8’11”; site of Lincoln’s infamous near-duel; and, if local lore holds up, the most haunted small town in America, watched over by the dragon-like Piasa painted high on its cliffs.
Grafton, upriver at the confluence of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers, traded its old identity as a river-commerce hub for a new one built on kayaks, wineries, and bluff-side overlooks.
Between them: miles of singletrack and paved trail, some of the best river paddling in the Midwest, and enough leg-burning hill climbs to earn a post-ride beer. Read on to find 14 ways to eat, sleep, and explore both towns right.
Parks and Trails
Get outside at Pere Marquette
Pere Marquette State Park, just outside Grafton, is Illinois’ largest state park at over 8,000 acres. It offers miles of bluff-top hiking trails and scenic overlooks, plus horseback riding, solid fishing, and plenty of camping spots. Climbers will also find more than 60 routes spanning sport, trad, and bouldering for various skill levels. With its mix of trails, water access, and rock, it’s a genuine hub for outdoor recreation in the region.
Bike along the Mississippi River
A must-do for cyclists, the Sam Vadalabene Bike Trail runs 22 miles along the Meeting of the Great Rivers National Scenic Byway, from Pere Marquette to downtown Alton. Expect lofty limestone bluffs, beautiful views of the Mighty Mississippi, and the famed Piasa cliff painting. Didn’t bring your bike? Rent one at multiple places. To quote Freddie Mercury, “Get on your bikes and ride!”
Ride UTVs and ziplines
Are you an adrenaline junkie? Head to Aerie’s Resort. Their 30-minute guided UTV tours take you across creek beds, limestone rock formations, and forest hillsides. For more thrills, try the Grafton Zipline, a series of ziplines and trails that will have you soaring more than 200 feet above the ground for nearly two miles, or the Grafton SkyTour, a scenic aerial lift that carries you 300 feet up the bluffs for panoramic views.
Hop on the ferry
Could Grafton really be considered a proper river town without a ferry? Probably, but having a ferry makes it much better. The Grafton Ferry has recently reopened and now offers daily service year-round, as long as weather and river conditions allow for safe passage. The ferry saves 30 minutes of driving time from St. Charles to Grafton and adds a unique touch to exploring the area.
Follow the migrations
Calling all bird nerds! Just across the Illinois River from Pere Marquette, near the Illinois village of Brussels, Two Rivers National Wildlife Refuge is a bird lover’s paradise. Every spring and fall, more than 200,000 waterfowl pass through the refuge on their migration, making it an incredible place to see ducks, geese, and other wildlife.
Food and Drink
Unwind in a huge shipping container
Imagine a shipping container converted into a spacious dining area. Now add a high-end bar mixing bespoke cocktails. Those are the bones of Flock in Alton. But that’s not all. Two food trucks are permanently parked outside: Byrdies, where you can build your own salads and wraps; and the Space Shuttle Cafe, which is housed in, you guessed it, an old space shuttle.
Slow down at Fast Eddie’s Bon Air
What started as Anheuser-Busch’s personal tavern in 1921 has since become an Alton institution. It’s loud, lively, and a little chaotic — and that’s the appeal. The menu is simple and straightforward: Choose from a burger, pork kabob, peel-and-eat shrimp, and/or the famous Big Elwood steak-on-a-stick. Add cold drinks, live music, and a huge patio, and you’ve got a place that’s more about the experience than putting on airs.
Sip brews at the Old Bakery
If you’re searching for refreshing beverages and a bite to eat after a day of exploring, the Old Bakery Beer Company is the move. The historic bakery-turned-microbrewery and restaurant in downtown Alton has a lot of character and a chill vibe. Brewers concoct certified organic beer and sparkling herbal teas, while the kitchen turns out handhelds, burgers, and rotating specials. It’s definitely a place where you’ll want to grab a beer and hang out for a while.
Savor views at the Loading Dock
At this Grafton establishment, the river views are as much a part of the experience as the food. Located along the Mississippi, it’s a mellow bar and grill with lots of outdoor seating, live music, and a fun, social atmosphere. Grab a burger, some of their signature fresh-made salsa (Dock Salsa), or a cold drink and watch the boats go by.
Grab a slice at Decaro’s
Decaro’s is one of those laid-back Alton spots that feels easy to settle into. The menu features plenty of Italian favorites, but the St. Louis-style thin-crust pizza is a big draw. You’ll also find traditional pasta dishes, toasted ravioli, sandwiches, and salads. It’s family-friendly and all about good food and a relaxed meal, not anything overly fancy.
Where to Stay
Sleep with a bird’s-eye view
Aerie’s Resort is the one-stop shop for accommodations and outdoor adventures in Grafton. This blufftop resort overlooks the confluence of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers and offers several lodging options. Choose the sweeping views of the Terrace rooms, the Lodge, or the Suites. Or stay next to the Mississippi River and Grafton’s downtown at the Landing complex. Your next decision: which Aerie’s adventure to take on?
Spend the night at Pere Marquette
After a long day of hiking in Pere Marquette State Park, why not stay? Pere Marquette Lodge & Conference Center, built in the 1930s, features rustic limestone-and-timber architecture, a 700-ton stone fireplace, and comfortable rooms. There’s also a restaurant, winery, and indoor pool. All in all, the place is a little reminiscent of the Overlook Hotel in Kubrick’s The Shining. Hopefully without the scary twins.
Wellness and Fitness
Learn to climb with Vertical Voyages
If you’re new to outdoor climbing and want a trusted hand to show you the ropes, Vertical Voyages is the company to call. Based in St. Louis, the accredited instructors offer guided climbing tutorials at Pere Marquette. You can learn the basics and climb a route or two in a half-day or explore multiple routes during a full-day session. All gear is provided, along with a tangible sense of calm knowing you’re in good hands.
Loosen up at River Bend Yoga
Looking to stretch, move, and maybe slow things down a bit? River Bend Yoga in downtown Alton is a welcoming spot with classes for yogis of all flexibility levels. Try everything from gentle and restorative yoga to hot, power, and even aerial yoga. They also offer classes for kids, plus teacher training sessions if you want to dive deeper into your practice.