Explore These 10 Great Climbing Spots in the Midwest

Missouri and Southern Illinois are perfectly positioned to take advantage of some of the best climbing the Midwest has to offer. Within a few hours’ drive of St. Louis, for example, you’ll find world-class sport climbing and bouldering. Venturing to these crags in the fall and winter has its perks, too, such as fewer crowds and a reduced chance of run-ins with poison ivy, chiggers, and ticks. These months also offer what climbers call “send temps”: chillier weather that equates to stickier and more friction-filled rock. Pack an extra jacket and visit one of these terrific climbing areas soon.

Holy Boulders
Location: Alto Pass, Illinois

Managed by the Illinois Climbing Association (ICA), Holy Boulders contains over 200 well-developed sandstone boulders. Whether you love slab, overhung, or vert, there’s a boulder here that you’re sure to love. Mollusk (V2/3) has a well-earned reputation as a classic for its funky top-out, and Shadow of a Man (V5) is an iconic test piece that rewards good footwork. Overnight camping is not permitted on the property, so be sure to scope out nearby campsites if you’re planning a weekend-long trip.

Jackson Falls
Location: Simpson, Illinois

One of the Midwest’s premier sport-climbing destinations, Jackson Falls boasts free camping and over 500 routes. The sandstone lines are well-bolted, choss-free, and full of fun, creative movement. Beginners shouldn’t miss Fine Nine (5.9) or Chimichonga (5.8+), while more advanced climbers should be sure to visit Railroad Rock, an area that features four excellent 5.11s and three top-notch 5.12s.

Sam’s Throne
Location: Mount Judea, Arkansas

When most climbers hear of Sam’s Throne, they think of trad climbing, but this spot in the Boston Mountains of north central Arkansas also has excellent sport climbing. The Candy Mountain area offers five-star sport lines ranging from 5.9 to 5.13a/b. Two other benefits of Sam’s: Unlike at Horseshoe Canyon, camping at this Arkansas locale is free, and dogs are allowed.

Rockwoods Reservation
Location: Wildwood, Missouri

Located a mere 30 minutes from downtown St. Louis, Rockwoods is a convenient crag to visit after work or for a day trip on the weekend. Its concentration of low grades and approachable routes make it a great option for those looking to learn how to sport climb and get comfortable outside. Xylem, a 5.10a, offers an engaging choose-your-own adventure when navigating its tricky crux and thin crack.

Elephant Rocks State Park
Location: Belleview, Missouri

Elephant Rocks’ superb granite is a great change of pace from the usual sandstone and limestone that compose most crags around Missouri. This state park houses over 100 boulders that range in difficulty from V0 to V10. Smoke (V4) is a popular boulder for its slopey holds and challenging bulge pull. To avoid large tourist crowds, visit during the colder months or on weekdays.

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Location: Jasper, Arkansas

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a sandstone paradise with over 730 climbs. While mainly sport, the area does offer over 200 boulders and 100 trad routes. Horseshoes and Hand Grenades (5.11a) is a classic steep line that’s excellent for those looking to break into the grade, while the North Forty area has a high concentration of fun, easy-to-moderate climbs. Def Jam (5.9) is a highly rated trad route that follows a splitter crack up a shallow dihedral.

Giant City State Park
Location: Makanda, Illinois

Giant City is the rare crag that offers ample bouldering, trad, and sport, all in one location. Devil on a Leash (V7) is a must-do for dynamic climbers who love committing moves and big pulls. Tiny Dancer (5.10) asks climbers to trust their feet and work on stemming and smearing. Giant City also offers a two-pitch sport route (County Line Divide, 5.9) and a six-pitch trad route (Tempura Tour Classic, 5.8), making Giant City a convenient training ground to hone and practice your multi-pitch skills.

Red River Gorge
Location: Slade, Kentucky

Visiting Red River Gorge for the first time can be overwhelming, with so many crags to choose from. Onsight Photography’s guidebook The Red is a worthwhile investment to help you make the most of your time. In addition to classic areas like The Motherlode and The Chocolate Factory, there are equally terrific but less popular areas to check out like The Gallery or Roadside.

St. Francois State Park
Location: Bonne Terre, Missouri

Climbers new to bouldering outside should take a day trip to St. Francois. The park has a large concentration of limestone boulders on the lower end of the grade scale, primarily from V1 to V4. Canary (V3/4) begins as a scrunchy sit-start and finishes with pulling a roof, getting high feet, and keeping your cool during the top-out. St. Francois also has a small number of challenging sport routes (5.11s and 5.12s) for those who love technical climbing on vert walls.

Ferne Clyffe State Park
Location: Goreville, Illinois

One of the newer crags in the Midwest, Ferne Clyffe opened in 2023 thanks to the work of the ICA and the Illinois Department of Natural Resources. Here you’ll find technical, sequential climbing with thin crimps, small pockets, and iron rails. Fink’s Arete (5.10b) is one of the most highly rated routes at the park. A heads-up: If you want to camp at Ferne Clyffe’s amenity-rich Deer Ridge campground, reservations must be made three days in advance.

Author: Mary Andino is a frequent contributor to Terrain.

Top image: A climber ascends Promised Land at Jackson Falls in Simpson, Illinois. (Mimi Harzan)